Hi, i have a Copeland -18 walk-in freezer on R404A which is not working for long time, it had a leak on high side and for many years nobody repair it, they just kept top it up with gas. I recently start working over it and found the leak and repair it. The problem is there is no sign for the amount gas to be charged so i charge on pressure. I make it suction on 20 psi and discharge is on 240 psi, but its not going down holding 6C in the room. Everything looks fine,but not going down and im confused.
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Problem with Copeland walk-in freezer
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new
hello everyone :o
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High Suction super heat and Low discharge super heat
Hi friends, We are having Macuay Chiler PEH 100 using refrigerant 134a
Please advise me the probable reasons for:-
1) High Suction Super heat.
2) Low Discharge Super heat.
Thanks.
Please advise me the probable reasons for:-
1) High Suction Super heat.
2) Low Discharge Super heat.
Thanks.
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Reasons for High Suction super heat and low Discharge superheat
Hi friends, We are having Macuay Chiler PEH 100 using refrigerant 134a
Please advise me the probable reasons for:-
1) High Suction Super heat.
2) Low Discharge Super heat.
Thanks.
Please advise me the probable reasons for:-
1) High Suction Super heat.
2) Low Discharge Super heat.
Thanks.
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Thermostatic expansion valve orifice size for variable loiads
I would like to have ideas when selecting the orifice size for variable loads like ice cube makers or ice cream batch freezers. Where the refrigeration load is different at the beginning of the freezing cycle from the load at the end of the freezing cycle.
When selecting the size of the orifice, should we consider the load at the beginning of the freezing cycle, the load at the end of the freezing cycle or the load at middle point?
When selecting the size of the orifice, should we consider the load at the beginning of the freezing cycle, the load at the end of the freezing cycle or the load at middle point?
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Rooftop lennox rtk g 21 pc
Hello. can someone help me with the service manual or wiring diagram to join LENNOX rooftop RTK model G 21 PC. It is the model that has gas heating. Thanks in advance.
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High pressure Climaveneta FOCS FC 4822
Hi , we have a chiller climaveneta FOCS FC 4822 with 2 circuit ,R 134 , i have this problem; High presure alarm 211 , i reset from mechanical presure switch , and i restart the compressor (bitzer CSH ....) The compreosr start but after ,not more ,than 10 second stop with alarm 211 (high presure) , 18 bar measured before dry filter , and 7 bar after the thermostatic expansion valve PHT/Q 125 (026H1164) from Danfoss .
Is possible that this valve to not open ?
We dont change the cartridge filter yet , it is possible to be from this one?
Is possible that this valve to not open ?
We dont change the cartridge filter yet , it is possible to be from this one?
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Ewwwww
This sounds very unlucky http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news...nt-see-3908221
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any guidance would be great help multi deck fridge
Hi all , I am new to this , called today to multi deck high ambiante temp in ncoffee shop 30 degrees frige not cooling , condensor cool to touch gave it a clean , evaporator blowing cool air ,temp on cotroller showing 15 degrees , didnt have correct manifold with me , checking compressor sticker said r404a r507 , can these be mixed or do i have to reclaim and charge i checked pipes there does not seem to be restiction of any kind its dual compressor one has shader if i were to charge would i put tap line on liquid line and charge there or into shrader its difficult as its not one of them you can pull out to service i cant see amps or gas type any bulls eye answers would help ones i have done previuos can be sliden out ( is that a word ?) acsess is difficult as i said , iv recomended he get A/C system and were talking bout that , but I would like to sort fridge al a pronto thanks
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Lg s12ahp n40
I have been looking at lg s12ahp. Unit is internally fed. When I switch the unit on it is hit and miss. The indoor board has a relay that sends power to the outdoor unit. Sometimes I turn it on and sometimes the relay clicks but most of the time it don't meaning the indoor unit runs and the outdoor unit don't. When it does work the compressor runs but the fan motor don't. I have replaced the outdoor capacitor but still the fan don't run. There is no power on the terminal on the capacitor that the fan plugs into. To test the fan I plugged it in to the compressor terminal and it run but only when I spin it. It would not start up itsself. This seems like a simple unit but is proving very stressful. Please help
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For all the problem solvers
Late night musings.
I have a heat source.
I have an requirement for cooling.
I don't have a compressor.
Can I use the heat to impart energy to a refrigerant gas, say R134a and use this added energy to start the refrigeration process.
Like a adsorption fridge but without the ammonia.
Any suggestions or links to any articles would be appreciated.
Cheers
I have a heat source.
I have an requirement for cooling.
I don't have a compressor.
Can I use the heat to impart energy to a refrigerant gas, say R134a and use this added energy to start the refrigeration process.
Like a adsorption fridge but without the ammonia.
Any suggestions or links to any articles would be appreciated.
Cheers
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Could a propane refrigeration (absorption) system be used to power an turbine?
A propane refrigeration (absorption) system could be the solution Im looking for. I need an efficient power source for my bubble powered Hydro Blade Turbine http://youtu.be/N3c-Ys0CifI Instead of using my original idea of ignited oxy-propane exhaust, I assume that a closed system of heated and cooled ammonia would be far more efficient. The ammonia gas vapor should have more than enough pressure needed to be released at the bottom of the turbine and travel up through the liquid pushing the turbine blades (or pockets), I dont think water will work as a liquid (I know pure ammonia gas and water will not), but maybe antifreeze will. Ideally, the turbine will remove most of the pressure from the vapor on its way to the condenser. Will the cycle continue if this depressurizing occurs? Im sure it wouldnt be easy to construct, but I just want to know if this seems possible (using a propane refrigeration design to just create pressurized gas and funnel it through a tank of antifreeze several feet tall, in a closed repeated cycling system, and not actually refrigerate anything)? Any other ideas or suggestions?
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Motor bearing failure
I`m sure everyone here has been to a motor that had noisy bearings or had tripped due to the bearings collapsing. I`ve been to many but have never had to watch one actually fail.
The site I`m on has a boiler fed by a 110kw water feed pump at 44 bar. Due to cost cutting the standby pump has been out of service for over a year. A few weeks ago the remaing one failed with a drive end bearing overheating. Much panic ensued as we only have one boiler and the entire site shuts down when the bolier fails; the motor was taken off the other pump and fitted in place of the bearing failure one. Halfway into a twelve hour night shift I thought the motor NDE was starting to be noisy but I put this down to listening just a bit to hard. One hour later I knew there was a problem developing as the noise was definitely there. If we had another pump I`d have switched over but I was stuck with this one. Over the next three hours it became increasingly louder so by 4.30 am I was phoning people up to inform them of impending shutdown (we have to do this as a procedure) 4.45: smoke was filling the plant room and I saw in was coming from the NDE along with loud screeching. I shut down the pump along with the boiler. A new motor was fitted and the boiler on line again fifteen hours later. So much for cost cutting!
The reason for posting this is I often read that bearings usually fail over a period of months (I`ve asked for bearing monitoring but once agian "cost cutting" gets in the way) so it was quite an experience to be present during the rapid failure of a bearing.
The site I`m on has a boiler fed by a 110kw water feed pump at 44 bar. Due to cost cutting the standby pump has been out of service for over a year. A few weeks ago the remaing one failed with a drive end bearing overheating. Much panic ensued as we only have one boiler and the entire site shuts down when the bolier fails; the motor was taken off the other pump and fitted in place of the bearing failure one. Halfway into a twelve hour night shift I thought the motor NDE was starting to be noisy but I put this down to listening just a bit to hard. One hour later I knew there was a problem developing as the noise was definitely there. If we had another pump I`d have switched over but I was stuck with this one. Over the next three hours it became increasingly louder so by 4.30 am I was phoning people up to inform them of impending shutdown (we have to do this as a procedure) 4.45: smoke was filling the plant room and I saw in was coming from the NDE along with loud screeching. I shut down the pump along with the boiler. A new motor was fitted and the boiler on line again fifteen hours later. So much for cost cutting!
The reason for posting this is I often read that bearings usually fail over a period of months (I`ve asked for bearing monitoring but once agian "cost cutting" gets in the way) so it was quite an experience to be present during the rapid failure of a bearing.
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Carrier Chiller Advice
Hi
I have to attend site to look at a Carrier 30GX Chiller in the next few weeks and have been advised that the service valve ports are not 1/4 inch
does anyone know what size they would be, would 3/8 be right its charged with 134a
Thanks for any advice in advance
The Rock
I have to attend site to look at a Carrier 30GX Chiller in the next few weeks and have been advised that the service valve ports are not 1/4 inch
does anyone know what size they would be, would 3/8 be right its charged with 134a
Thanks for any advice in advance
The Rock
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which one is a better ?
I am designing this system and I would like to see your idea ?
in first one liquid goes to thermosiphon oil cooler passing ECO bronzed plate and temperature of that comes down .
in second one liquid comes from receiver .
in first one liquid goes to thermosiphon oil cooler passing ECO bronzed plate and temperature of that comes down .
in second one liquid comes from receiver .
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TGV thermostat
Does anyone have any info on all the different PIN numbers on the back of an old Thermo King TG V?
i am looking to put a TGV in a non Thermo king application, so I need to know what all the different pins to.
i am looking to put a TGV in a non Thermo king application, so I need to know what all the different pins to.
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IDM heatpump with multitalent.002 control
Dear all,
I have an IDM (Austria) ground source water-water heatpump with multitalent.002 control, and IDM Hygienik hot-water system.
I have problem about hot water making: I set hot water to 56 Celsius, but the heating begin under 46 Celsius of water tank. The heating will end when the heatpump output temp. reach 58 Celsius. Unfortunately the water tank temperature still lower than required hot-water tank, for example 50...52 Celsius.
I didn't find any settings for this starting and ending temperatures.
In the password-protected setup menu can I set heatpump maximum temperature, this is 62 Celius, but I don't reach this temp. There is no any other options for this problem.
Please help me if you know this system and this control.
Janos
I have an IDM (Austria) ground source water-water heatpump with multitalent.002 control, and IDM Hygienik hot-water system.
I have problem about hot water making: I set hot water to 56 Celsius, but the heating begin under 46 Celsius of water tank. The heating will end when the heatpump output temp. reach 58 Celsius. Unfortunately the water tank temperature still lower than required hot-water tank, for example 50...52 Celsius.
I didn't find any settings for this starting and ending temperatures.
In the password-protected setup menu can I set heatpump maximum temperature, this is 62 Celius, but I don't reach this temp. There is no any other options for this problem.
Please help me if you know this system and this control.
Janos
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E0 and E1 error
Hi!
I got a Beko freezer frost free and it is giving me the E0 and E1 error.
I know it is related with sensors but my question is, where can I buy this parts and how do I replace them? Can someone help me please?
I got a Beko freezer frost free and it is giving me the E0 and E1 error.
I know it is related with sensors but my question is, where can I buy this parts and how do I replace them? Can someone help me please?
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Heat Pump Retrofit Assistance Needed
I recently replaced the outdoor unit on an older heat pump installation for a family member. Unit used to be an R22 3T and I replaced it with an R410A 3.5T, replaced the lines after flushing the coil and also replaced the TXV indoors with one matched to the outdoor unit. The air handler fan has been replaced and is running in high speed. Lines were evacuated for an hour and held down to 500 microns before charge was released. Refrigerant charge has been topped-off to account for the 55' of pipe as per the installation manual.
It is 87'F outside today and I tried firing up the heat pump in heating mode to see whether it would work. I put my new digital manifold on and fired her up. It appeared to be working fine for the first 15 minutes or so before it tripped-out on hard lockout. Note that the indoor temp had risen to 95'F. I noticed that the suction line temp had risen dramatically up to 256'F and that the glue on the pipe insulation had melted. I also recorded the gauge readings just before the unit shut off and they were 110/283 PSI. The liquid line temp was 89'F. There is also a low vibration coming through the lines into the house.
I am not a refrigeration tech but work in the field enough to be dangerous. I would like some suggestions as to what the most likely causes for a problem might be. Here are some variables that I can come up with:
- The older indoor coil is not large enough
- I somehow botched-up the TXV installation inside the AH and may have caused some restriction despite the fact that it is being bypassed by the internal check valve in heating mode. Note that the sight glass after the TXV was clear and did not show any signs of flashing.
- The new blower is running at too high a speed.
That kind of covers the areas I might have screwed-up on. Your suggestions on what may be happening would be greatly appreciated.
It is 87'F outside today and I tried firing up the heat pump in heating mode to see whether it would work. I put my new digital manifold on and fired her up. It appeared to be working fine for the first 15 minutes or so before it tripped-out on hard lockout. Note that the indoor temp had risen to 95'F. I noticed that the suction line temp had risen dramatically up to 256'F and that the glue on the pipe insulation had melted. I also recorded the gauge readings just before the unit shut off and they were 110/283 PSI. The liquid line temp was 89'F. There is also a low vibration coming through the lines into the house.
I am not a refrigeration tech but work in the field enough to be dangerous. I would like some suggestions as to what the most likely causes for a problem might be. Here are some variables that I can come up with:
- The older indoor coil is not large enough
- I somehow botched-up the TXV installation inside the AH and may have caused some restriction despite the fact that it is being bypassed by the internal check valve in heating mode. Note that the sight glass after the TXV was clear and did not show any signs of flashing.
- The new blower is running at too high a speed.
That kind of covers the areas I might have screwed-up on. Your suggestions on what may be happening would be greatly appreciated.
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Toyo Split system external fan.
Hi Group
I am new to the forum. I have a Toyo split air con system not an inverter unit.
I am a beginner working on air con units usually I do gas and oil boilers.
The outdoor unit fan is not running but the compressor does until
it becomes too hot.
I have traced this back to the solenoid on the circuit board not supplying
240volts. If I supply the 240volts it works fine.
A quick question is does the fan usually get switched by some thermostat in the system that might be faulty that I haven't seen or should
it simply run all the time that the unit is on for cooling?
I am new to the forum. I have a Toyo split air con system not an inverter unit.
I am a beginner working on air con units usually I do gas and oil boilers.
The outdoor unit fan is not running but the compressor does until
it becomes too hot.
I have traced this back to the solenoid on the circuit board not supplying
240volts. If I supply the 240volts it works fine.
A quick question is does the fan usually get switched by some thermostat in the system that might be faulty that I haven't seen or should
it simply run all the time that the unit is on for cooling?
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